Pretty Stitch Crochet Top- Free Pattern

The Pretty Stitch Crochet Top is just that, pretty! It is a lovely top you can wear on its own or accessorize as you please.

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When I started designing this top, I had a clear picture on what it should look like, but as with many my designs, the picture changed midway. The bottom line was to create a simple, comfortable yet aesthetically pleasing piece.

A piece that can be worn casually yet fashionably, that can be paired with accessories while still maintaining its style. And with this stitch tehnique, that wasn’t hard to accomplish.

Making the body of the top is very basic, with the use of Double and Single crochet stitches you get the pretty texture this top is named after. The shoulder and sleeves use the Half Double and Single crochet stitches to achieve the ribbing.

The yarn used is Alize Cotton Gold solid, a perfect blend of cotton and acrylic yarn, and I believe this blend aided in making the stitch look pretty. The Dreamer Poncho is another clothing I made using this same yarn and same stitch technique. You can get the yarn here or check here for yarn substitutes.

I guarantee you won’t find this pretty stitch top hard to make. And there’s one for every size from extra small to 5xl. Let’s get to it!

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It’s ok if you sell items you made using LM patterns. And I’d really love it if you mentioned it was from LM.
And please, do not sell or mass produce LM patterns- (the only exception is if you are donating the handmade items to charity)

Thanks. You can read more on LM policy here.

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Finished Sizes(approx.): xs-5xl- bust/length

28-30/22″, 32-34/23″, 36-38/23″, 40-42/24.5″, 44-46/24.5″, 48-50/25.2″, 52-54/25.2″, 56-58/26.5″, 60-62/26.5″

You’ll need:Guage: 17 row x 16 sts across= 4×4

• Sport weight Yarn (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6 balls). In this pattern, Alize Cotton Gold solids yarn in colour 610-jade (100g/3.53oz; 330 mtrs/361 yds). Get it here
• 4.5mm hook
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker

Stitches/Abbreviation

SC- single crochet

DC- double crochet

HDC- half double crochet

SC2tog- single crochet decrease

DC2tog- double crochet decrease

CH- chain

SL ST- slip stitch

BLO- back loop only

WS- wrong side (the back side of the ribbing)

RS- right side (the front side of the ribbing)

Notes:

• Pattern written in U.S terms
• Ch 1 does not count as a stitch
• The sizing is for XS-5XL in this sequence (XS, S, M, L, 1XL, 2XL,3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

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Pretty Stitch Crochet Top- Free Pattern

Body and Shoulder– make 2

Chain 81, 83, 83, 87, 87, 89, 89, 91, 91

Row 1: DC in 3^rd ch from hook, *SC in next, DC in next. repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: (SC in next, DC in next) repeat across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: (DC in next, SC in next) repeat across. Ch 1, turn

Rows 4- 62, 64, 70, 74, 74, 76, 76, 80, 80, repeat rows 2 and 3. DO NOT break yarn. Proceed to make the shoulder

I need your help here! With your fabric held up at your collarbone, measure your neckline as shown in the photo below- be sure to centralise the fabric. Place stitch markers in stitch just at the end of collarbone (where I’m pointing)

Note: for the shoulder, the first part is 2 sts taller than the second part.

First part of the Shoulder

Row 1: Ch 1, HDC in same stitch, HDC across (to the point of stitch marker). Ch 1, turn

Row 2: in BLO, SC2tog, SC across (up to the 1st HDC). ch1 turn

Row 3: HDC across. ch 1, turn

Row 4: in BLO, SC2tog, SC across. Ch 1, turn

Rows 5- 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, repeat rows 3 and 4. Break yarn

Second part of the Shoulder

Row 1: Attach yarn in stitch, Ch1, HDC in same st, HDC across. ch 1, turn

Row 2: in BLO SC across till last 2 sts, SC2tog. Ch 1, turn

Row 3: HDC across. Ch 1, turn

Row 4: in BLO, SC across till last 2 sts, SC2tog. Ch 1, turn

Rows 5- 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, repeat rows 3 and 4. Leave a considerably long tail to seam the shoulder.

With WS facing up, seam the shoulder by going under both loops back and forth, tie tails together, break yarn.

 Edging the Neckline

Note: In the photo, the arrows point to where you will be making decreases.

 

With RS facing up

Round 1: attach yarn in any of the (4) corners, Ch 1, DC2tog, (SC in next, DC in next) repeat to the next corner. decrease, repeat ( ) to center of seam (shoulder), decrease, repeat ( ) to the next corner, decrease, repeat ( ) to the last corner, decrease, repeat ( ) to center of seam, decrease, repeat ( ) to the last stitch. DO NOT join, place stitch marker in last st

Round 2: Decrease in next 2 sts, repeat round 1 around to the last stitch where you have your marker. Join to 1^st st.

To have a closer neckline repeat the Round 1-2 more times.

Seaming the sides

Before seaming the sides, measure armhole, place stitch markers as follows for each size:

7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11

With WS facing out, start at the bottom from the 11^th stitch and sew all the way to the armhole marker. Leave stitch marker on.

Sleeves

Note:

The arrow on photo 2 points to the seam where the decrease will be made- make decrease right in the middle of the seam.

While the one on photo 3 will be made in the stitches with the stitch marker (unfortunately, stitch marker was taken out before the shot).

Tip: to decrease on row 3, use the decrease from row 1 to gauge the stitches to work into. Applies to row 5 as well.

With RS facing out, join yarn in 1^st st,

Row 1: Ch 1, HDC across to the center of seam, HDC2tog, HDC across. Ch 1, turn

Row 2: in BLO SC2tog, SC across till last 2 sts, SC2tog.

Row 3: HDC across to center of seam, HDC2tog, HDC across. Ch 1, turn

Row 4: in BLO SC2tog, SC across till last 2 sts, SC2tog. Ch1, turn

Rows 5-6: repeat rows 3 and 4, continue to the sides,

SC 6, SC2tog, SC 6. Break yarn, tie tails, weave them in.

And there you have your Pretty Stitch Crochet Top. Was that not fairly easy?

As always, when you make one I’d love to see it. You can tag me on Instagram with #loopinglym or share in our Private Facebook Group and let’s all admire your handwork.