C2C Boxy Bunny Amigurumi- Free Crochet Pattern

C2C Bunny Blanket and Boxy Bunny

What, a C2C Boxy Bunny Amigurumi? Why not? Has it occured to you that the corner to corner crochet technique is not only good for blankets? Of course, if you already saw the C2C Shrug I made, you would agree with me.

Purchase a PDF of this pattern on Etsy or LoveKnitting

Ever since I learnt the corner to corner crochet technique, I have not been short of ideas- they keep coming and coming. And I am really excited for all the designs that can be made with this technique. The possibilities are just endless

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You might also think, why not just make this amigurumi the normal way by working in the round? Why go through the stress of sewing up so much pieces?

Really, where’s the fun in that? I mean, I have already designed the 3 hour Amigurumi Doll and Heart Teddy Amigurumi in the round so I had to do things differently now. And this C2C Boxy Bunny is not hard to make, you just need a little patience to sew all parts together.

Besides, crochet is an art form that allows for self expression of ideas and creativity. So, make this with me.

The C2C Boxy Bunny Amigurumi is one of a kind. It is perfect for little ones as a soft toy, and also to help with grasping skills (peek the long limbs). It is also very safe as there are no hard parts (e.g, buttons, safety eyes) that can be put in the mouth or worse, chewed. I really designed this with babies and toddlers in mind.

Plus, this boxy bunny pairs perfectly with the C2C Crochet Bunny Baby Blanket. and you can get the PDF set too

How it was done

All the pieces are first made then sewn, stuffed and sewn on together.

Due to the nature of c2c, there are usually spaces to be seen, so this pattern uses the Half Double Crochet stitch instead of the regular Double Crochet. Also, you will be using a sheer pantyhose to hold the stuffing- this is to orevent it from poking through the spaces of the c2c fabric.

Finished Size: about 16 inches (with limbs)

You’ll need:

2 balls Super Bulky weight yarn. (In this pattern, Himalaya Dolphin Baby; 100g/3.53oz , 120mtrs/131 yds), Colour- Fuschia or substitute with Bernat Baby Blanket
Sport weight yarn for nose. Colour white
5.5 mm & 2.5mm hooks
Black embroidery thread for muzzle and eyes
Tapestry needle
Polyfill stuffing
Nude colour sheer pantyhose- size S

Stitches/Abbreviation

Corner to corner crochet technique

Notes:

Pattern is written in U.S terms
This C2C uses Half Double Crochet
Your starting chain should be Chain 4, HDC in 2^nd Chain from hook, HDC in next 2 chains. So, every turning/increase is Chain 4 and the every continuing number is Chain 1
The sewing method used is the simple over cast seam- this is done by going into both stitches on both sides and seaming round.

Helpful Tips

Since there are two pieces for the main body, leave a 25 inch tail on the front piece for final sewing..
Also for the other pieces you need to sew on, leave a 15 inch tail to do the sewing.
Try not to poke through the pantyhose when sewing- otherwise, the yarn could get stuck.
If you are new to corner to corner crochet, these tutorials might help- bellacoco crochet and crochet crowd

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C2C Boxy Bunny Amigurumi- Free Crochet Pattern

Refer to chart for the Body, Limbs and Ears

Nose – with white yarn and 2.5mm hook

Form magic ring

Round 1: Ch 1, Dc in 10 in ring. Join to 1st st.

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 DC in each st around. Join to 1^st st.

Round 3: Ch 1, DC in 1^st st, DC in next

Cutting and Stuffing the Pantyhose

Body pantyhose

You will only be using the upper part and 1 leg of the pantyhose.

Cut the upper part (body of amigurumi) close to the crotch (sorry if you find the word offensive) to be at least half an inch taller than the fabric.
Turn inside out and sew the bottom openings closed- turn out again then stuff it full. Not bulky, but full.

Fold the top of the pantyhose inward and sew closed. Making sure to sew aross twice.

Limbs pantyhose

For the legs and hands, use the length of the fabric to determine the length to cut. The pantyhose you cut should be about half an inch shorter than the length of the fabric- you will be cutting out 4 pieces.

When done, tie the bottom of stockings that have 2 openings, stuff them lightly- you can test how much you should stuff it by wrapping the limb fabric around it and see if you can squeeze it in without you struggling with it.

Stuff the leg a bit higher than the hands- See photo above of stuffed pantyhose.

When that’s done, tie the opening at the top tight- you can do this twice

Closing the limbs

First, sew the bottom closed, then pass the yarn to the open part and begin to sew

Sewing to Body

So, the major ‘surgery’ is done on the back piece of the bunny. Try to make sure the pieces you are sewing to the body align- right hand should be on the same line as left hand and vice versa for the ears.

Hands- position it so it is an inch farther inside the body rather than on the edge.

Legs- position it just at the bottom of the body. See photo

Sew the nose to the front body of fabric, and draw the eyes as well (do this by going over one tile with the black thread). You may find this photo tutorial useful on making the muzzle. All sewing should be secured nice and tight before the final sewing.

So, you do not have to snip yarns or threads as much, just tuck them in while doing the final sewing.

Final Sewing

This is done in one piece with the tail left off at the end of the fabric. Try to match tile to tile, Sew through the arms and all the way around.

Weave in all lose ends and snip yarn.

Rose

Welcome to Craft-Her, call me Rose! Few things in life give me pleasure, creating with my hands is one of them. Crochet with me, enjoy my patterns. Drop me a mail or two sometime, I'd like that very much.